Recently I went along to Alan Yau’s latest Japanese themed restaurant that also won Time Out’s Best Restaurant for Design. It looks impressive, yet I have to say the overall experience disappointed and I’d rather spend the money at more traditional places like Sushi Say.
The design…
Taking over what looks like the first two floors of an office lobby, you enter via automatic round doors guarded by a bouncer into a rather non descript lobby. We almost missed the place with tiny small lettering only visible when you’re standing almost right next to it. To your left as you enter, is a less formal sushi bar, with the dining room accessible by a set of two tiny escalators moving up and down. You check in at the tiny desk at the front before a an attendant seats you at the bar while you wait for your table. The tiny escalators, perhaps intentionally designed to induce a claustrophic sensation, take you to an even tinier coridor.
The dining room sits underneath an array of light wooden square frames creating sharp and contrasting options with soft yellow lights casting their glow in the circular dining room. Around the outside perimeter of the building, diners sit at more traditional tables where they need to remove their shoes before seating, with the inside used to host regular tables and chairs. Though impressive looking, I’m really not so sure why they got voted the best design as I’ve seen better at other places.
The service…
For a place that should have been astonishing with their service, I’m afraid these people are still practicing. I was already put off by being made to wait at the bar when the restaurant was clearly empty, and I’m sure our table clear. Instead we were made to wait at small tables near the bar, until we ordered.
We asked for tap water, that they ended up serving in a tiny 200mL glass. I wouldn’t have worried so much except that they didn’t give us a jug and the attendants only refilled them once throughout the night, despite the sodium rich food leaving you wanting more liquid. I’m sure that had we been paying their £3.75 per bottle of water, or more for wine, they would have been better.
When the food arrived, it somehow took two people to serve the samll plates of food each time – one to hold it, the other to put it and present it on the table. The final straw was when it took at least fifteen minutes for them to bring the bill after asking for it specifically and giving up trying to make eye contact with at least one attendant in another fifteen minutes.
The food…
Since they opened, it’s obvious that they have listened to the feedback offered by numerous reviewers. Unlike before, the menu is now roughly grouped into different areas like fried, grilled, stewed, appetisers, and the dishes significantly larger than the others marked as “for 2” or “for 3”. Their menu still lacks descriptions so be prepared to be very adventerous, read up before going, or already know a lot of Japanese dishes. Having eaten at many Japanese places, I didn’t really know what to expect from a number of them, although I could take some rough guesses.
We tried a few new dishes including the sesame aubergine, tempura figs with yuzu salt and the soft pork ribs. Out of them, I’d have to say the ribs were the best that, although not fall of the bone soft, were actually pretty easy to eat even with chopsticks. The meat was sweet with the vegetables served with it providing lots of flavour. The tempura figs provided a sharp contrast to the strongly flavoured citrus infused salt. I can’t say that the dishes, as good as they were are worth the money you pay for at this restaurant.
Conclusion…
I get the feeling most people dine here to see and be seen. As much as a unique Japanese experience Yau wanted to create, I’d rather go to a proper Japanese restaurant than return to a place that obviously still has teething problems.
Value for money: 4/10
Food: 7/10
Service: 4/10
Atmosphere: 6/10
Overall rating: 5/10