Economics at play with Rickshaws in India

RickshawsI sometimes find catching a rickshaw a harrowing experience. As a “ferengi” (foreigner) you end up having a much tougher time trying to bargain with drivers (I’ve only caught one where you didn’t have to bargain at all). I’ve learned some lessons like not asking how much it is to get to some place as they’ll normally double or triple their prices. It’s also not a great idea to descend on one or two taxis as a large group. They realise that you all want to get somewhere in one go, and can immediately collude to increase prices.

On the other hand, heading as an individual to a place where there is a group of rickshaws generally means you can at least bargain your way back to a normal price. If someone is asking too much, it’s just a simple matter of going to someone else (of course, this can backfire if they want to collude as well).

Interestingly this casts my mind back to economics back at University. Large supply (lots of rickshaws) and limited demand (just me) will work in my favour of pushing the price down. Large demand (big group of us) and limited supply (two or three of us) result in pushes being pushed up. Price elasticity of demand is represented by how much you want to get somewhere, while price elasticity of supply depends on how much the rickshaw driver really wants their business. Both of these fluctuate as the traffic increases/decreases in the evenings.

As interesting as this is, I’d prefer the approach rickshaws in Bombay operate by simply putting on their meter.

Feedback Required

I’m still not used to it. Being handed a feedback form at the end of a meal. Or when we’re finished teaching classes in the hotel. I think it’s great they collect them, but I still find filling out all those feedback forms really strange. A lot of them are those classic five point scales with an added comments section at the bottom. They even sometimes require contact details.

I asked around and apparently it’s a very common practice in the more commercial places. Sometimes they’ll pursue you for more detail if you provide them with a score that is less than acceptable and didn’t give them any reasons.

I find it actually a refreshing practice, although I’m not sure how effective it is.

Eating in Bangalore Part 3

Some more places for food in Bangalore:

  • Geoffrey’s – Like Ginseng, this restaurant is also located in the Royal Orchard Hotel off airport road (1,Golf Avenue). Geoffrey’s is actually a pub with a big screen showing matches from European football. Food on offer ranges from continental to a smaller selection of Pan Asian foods (we think some offered from Ginseng upstairs). Food quality is generally pretty good with nicely sized portions at reasonable rates. We had a few pitchers of beer, some dinner and it ended up around INR800.
  • Ashoka DeluxeKoshy’s – A popular restaurant found up one end of MG road on St Mark’s Road. As you enter the restaurant, you walk under a big Fish and Chips sign, obviously showing heavy continental and English influence. One side of the restaurant offers white table clothed-dining rooms while the other offers a less formal dining experience. Large pillars and impressive fans whirl, cooling its dining guests. They offer plenty of Indian food as well (pretty much all we ate there) as well as a few beers. I’m not sure how much it ended up being for the four of us there.
  • Ashoka Deluxe – The restaurant found in the hotel of the same name, this one focuses on Andhran cuisine (the spiciest of the Indian regions). Their prices are very reasonable at well under INR100 each, and a decent selection of breads starting from INR15. Best yet is the local Kingfisher beer, with a large bottle setting you back INR77. Total price for a meal INR177.
  • TGI Fridays – A very popular joint, especially with the ex-pat crowd that serves overpriced beer and westernised food. A redeeming feature is the happy hour specials that run until about 8pm but still cost double compared to a more local place. A trait that seems to run common here is that quite a few people ended up with food poising from here.

Travelling Tips for India

BusTravelling in some countries is easier than others. Travelling around India hasn’t been too bad though there’s a few things that I didn’t realise you would need. Here’s a list to help you if you happen to travel in India.

  • Take your residential address with you and a contact number. When checking into hotels, they will need the address of where you are considered as “residential”, even if it’s a hotel.
  • Take your passport with you. Like the above need, hotels need a photocopy of the front page and the visa. You may want to take a photocopy of both of these things if you feel uncomfortable leaving your passport behind.
  • Print out a map or two of where you are staying, relative to the roads. Not all taxi drivers know all the roads around the city, especially if you’re travelling long distances. Pointing it out where it’s relative to (something like MG road) might help you find it easier.
  • Print out your hotel name and address. Language and understanding of some hotel names may be confusing, so it’s easier if you have it written down somewhere.

Coffee in India

I thought finding quality coffee in London was hard until I arrived here in Bangalore. Two very noticeable traits about coffee I’ve had here is that it’s very watery (or milky) or has plenty of sugar. This probably extends to their tea as well (though chai masala is very very nice!). Check out how many packs of sugar they gave for this single coffee.

Coffee in India

Use Your Right Hand

One of the lessons you quickly learn in India is to use your right hand for pretty much most things. The theory goes something like the left hand is dirty because it’s associated with cleaning activities that would leave it… rather unhygienic.

When you eat Indian food with your hands (it’s a very common thing), you start to learn the art of tearing bread with only your right hand, and eventually learn how to eat rice with that same hand. Tearing bread so far seems quite easy but I haven’t had much opportunity to practice eating rice as yet. Mmmm… all those fresh naan, roti and paratha breads.

Tripping around Kochi

RainI know that I’ve only been in India for two weeks, however knowing that we’ll be moving to Pune in mid-November, I thought this weekend would be a good chance to see a little more of Southern India. I really wanted to visit Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of India but the flight and a very long train ride both there and back put it out of reach for a weekend trip. The next place recommended to me was Kochi. Trying to book flights and hotel ended up being very confusing as the city used to be called Cochin and though they sound very similar, the last thing I wanted to do was book a hotel in one city, and fly to another.

I arrived pretty late, and after an hour-long pre-paid taxi trip to my hotel I arrived in the middle of Ernakulam, the mainland of what makes up part of Kochi. I grabbed dinner at a local restaurant since it was pouring down with rain. I woke up to even more rain the next day, and since my hotel didn’t have an umbrella I could borrow, I took a rickshaw to first find a store that sold an umbrella and then made my way to the main ferry station. Umbrella in hand at only INR170 (£2.40) I caught the next ferry to the more touristy, Fort Cochin Island. The ferry was really something. I happened to be the only non-local on it, which by its nature meant plenty of staring. The ferry was not a very big boat, and loaded with lots of people, it really didn’t go very fast despite its very noisy and large gasoline engine. Blue tarpaulin hanging off the sides was all that kept the torrential rain (barely) outside. Quite an experience I must say and very glad to say one I survived.

Feeding PigeonsI finally arrived at Fort Cochin Island, if not slightly damp, that although is slightly touristy also holds Kochi’s most appealing sights. A richshaw driver suckered me into a local tour, and although it started off very pleasant with visits to all the churches, museums and many sights of the island, also meant I was forcibly stopped at ten different stores around town. I feel like I spent much more time being herded from store to store without actually enjoying myself. One exception was a store found on Bazar Road found in the Mantanchery district (that is also known as the Spice Market) called “Castle”, and fortunately the only thing I bought something in. It ends up being one of the tallest buildings in that area, with a great sitting area up top looking out over the island. I sat there with one of the shop-keepers having tea for quite some time chatting about the local area and was probably one of the best bits to the day. One thing I learned, for example, is that people in Kochi actually eat quite a lot of beef which counters both the idea that Southern India centres around vegetarians and the sacred cow.

More rainI’d probably avoid the Portugese Museum that, although shows some of the history of the Island, is really not that big or impressive. Instead, I’d spend some more time at the Jain temple, found in the Mantanchery district and if you manage to co-ordinate your timing to arrive at around noon, you’ll get to see them feed the pigeons. Like clockwork, a quick call out rounds up hundred of pigeons that do a quick loop of the temple before landing around the priests that man the temple. A few prayers are held before a bag of seed is poured out everywhere. They even let visitors feed them directly by taking scoops of the feed and holding them out. Other things that are worth seeing include the Chinese fishing nets down by the harbour, the several churches on the Island and one of the only beaches in the area.

IslandingCompared to both Mysore and Bangalore, Kochi offers quite a different experience. It’s obviously much more coastal with plenty more bodies of water (though probably still not very drinkable). It’s home to the shipping yards and we even saw some very impressive ships docking at one of the other islands. The recent rains also meant that the water was filled with plenty of uprooted water vegetation and didn’t seem to bother any of the tourist boats. They have some lovely restaurants, both by the water and not, with the focus more on the seafood and coconut-infused curries obviously very popular. Coffee didn’t seem to get any better here (still very watery) and although locals stared plenty at me, many of them still were very friendly about it. It’s a great destination to chill out as a tourist and I would definitely return to do several other things had I much more time in India.

Check out the pictures from the trip here.