Soseki

Underwhelmed. This is probably the best way to describe my experience at Soseki. I don’t know why I was struck by a case of “so-whats” after dining at Soseki but unfortunately, despite the good service and the nice atmosphere and quality of food, that’s how I felt. Soseki is a kaiseki-style restaurant, meaning Japanese haute-cuisine. Kaiseki is basically a succession of dishes which balances the taste, texture, appearance, and colors of food. Translation: good-tasting food that looks and feels good.

Much is made of Soseki’s location near the Gherkin. Admittedly it is a beautiful location and the views from the giant almost floor to ceiling windows are fantastic. The restaurant itself is quite attractive inside too with wood and oriental paneling (including the embedded screen print in our table with glass across the top.) Its an intimate restaurant able to sit up to about 40 people max including a sushi bar about 10 people can sit around, four “pagodas” and a tatami room which is practically sealed off from the rest of the restaurant.

All meals at Soseki are served “omakase” meaning you won’t be able to order anything off an a la carte menu but instead you are subject to the whims of the chefs in the kitchen and their decision on what you’ll eat on any particular night. I asked the maitre d’ whether this meant that potentially that no visit to Soseki will be the same and he answered in the affirmative. He said it was because the day’s menu depended on the ingredients available on the day meaning everything you eat is fresh and seasonal.

Sandra and I took advantage of a 50% off offer on toptable. Since we were having half off we decided to go for the most expensive omakase – the £65 ‘Hanashi’ sushi-kappo menu: 12 dishes (13 if you include the palate cleanser.) This is what we had:

The Dishes How They Looked The Comment
Sakizuke (appetiser) Three tiny portions for our appetisers which included truffle potato with onion, lotus root and saffron and some other veg I can’t remember drizzled in some sort of miso sauce! Quite mild tasting.
Mushimono, Sashimi, Wan mono soup Our next three courses were served together. Starting with the mushimono (a steamed dish) which consisted of a steamed egg custard with chicken. Sandra didn’t find this dish particularly appealing and I must admit if I’d never had steamed egg at home before the soft consistency and mild flavours would have had me feeling a bit ill. Next was the sashimi which consisted of salmon, yellow tail and another white fish I couldn’t identify and I couldn’t understand what the waitress said. Finally we had the Wan mono soup which tonight consisted of deep fried mackerel. This dish was particularly strong in flavour. I liked it the most of the three “courses.”
Nigiri sushi You can’t ever go wrong with Nigiri sushi. Again featuring the three fish from our Sashimi we also had prawn and my favourite barbecued eel (unagi.)
Agemono (fried) Like Nigiri sushi you can’t ever go wrong with Tempura. Tonight it was in the form of tempura prawn plus veg (sweet potato, carrot, capsicum.)
Yakimono (grilled) The Yakimono tonight consisted of a braised beef (very strong in flavour and very tender) and steak (cooked almost rare.) Both dishes were fairly tasty.
Gunkan sushi, Maki sushi, Tomezakana sunomono, Miso soup Our final “courses” before the dessert were served altogether. Gunkan sushi, is a way to put semi-liquid ingredients in sushi form. Our Gunkan sushi was topped with the salmon and yellow-tail. The maki sushi had barbecue eel in one and something unidentified in the other. The Tomezakana sunomono is a style of dish which was described as the penultimate vinegared dish. Tonight it seemed to be some sort of veg plus crab in vinegar. We’re unsure whether this was supposed to be the palatte cleanser.
Dessert Our dessert consisted of four mini portions. The first was a slice from a mini chocolate swiss roll, green tea ice cream, a kebab of slices of fruit and a mouse/cheesecake type dish. Not a bad way to finish off the meal.

So, it sounds alright doesn’t it?

Ever since leaving the restaurant I’ve been trying to work out why I was so blah about the whole meal. I guess it boils down to the fact that there was just nothing that stood out and said “Wham! Look at me! I taste great!” or “I’m spectacularly different!” There was truly nothing that made Soseki different, in my opinion, from any other Japanese restaurant in London. Sure the food was high quality and great attention to detail paid in presentation – just a shame that I was expecting some sort of magic and the magician just didn’t deliver tonight.

These shoes were made for walkin’…

So, I’m sure that everyone’s aware that London took quite a snow dump yesterday and today and in the process wreaked some
terrible havoc on our transport system. This impacted me in three ways:
– Trying to get home from Gatwick Airport
– Going to work today
– Returning home from work today

On the plus side, we got to see London in a whole new light and experienced some of the most beautiful vistas I’ve ever seen.

Blackfriars to Home: 7.4km

About 30 minutes out from Gatwick our pilot came on to the speaker system to give us the news that Gatwick had closed and that it was likely we would have to land in Bristol or some other random airport. This news was met with quite a few groans. Thankfully about 5 minutes later he came back to say that yay, Gatwick had opened again. This was, unfortunately, not the end of the story.

We were the first plane to touch down after Gatwick opened, which was the good news. The bad news was that our stand for parking did not have its snow cleared yet. We waited in the plane on the tarmac about half an hour whilst they cleaned it off but then, just as we thought it was nearly ready, it started to snow again! Nearly an hour after we landed we were finally got off the plane. I thought that this was the end of our troubles but no. Of course the trains were upset as well – not only were we faced with delayed trains but after about an hour of standing around waiting for trains we were told that all but one were cancelled! This one train was heading into London Blackfriars so of course everyone got on to it. I won’t bore you with more details about how this train also faced significant delays but eventually at 1am we rolled into London Blackfriars. By this time the tubes had stopped running of course and eventually we found out that all buses had been pulled from the streets for safety reasons so here I was miles from home and no way to get home. I figured I could start walking home and try and flag a taxi on the way. No such luck – as I’m now fond of saying – I couldn’t have bought a taxi if I’d had £1m ..

In the end I ended up walking 7.4km home in the snow and with my converse shoes my feet were so cold and wet it was ridiculous. I nearly thought they’d have to get chopped off! At 4.30am I finally crawled into my warm bed …

Home to work: 3.5km

Slipping and sliding to work was a bit awkward today but I nevertheless enjoyed the walk. There’s just something magical about snow that gets me all excited so even though most tubes were down and no buses were still running it didn’t ruin my good mood.

Work to Home via Hyde Park: 4.6km

Even though the route was a little bit longer, I managed to cheat a bit by catching one of the few tubes running to South Kensingon, I had to walk through Hyde Park. Highlights of the walk included all the snowmen and women (of course) and also seeing a couple enjoying some cross-country skiing. What a blast!

Weekend in Madrid

Mirela has been living in Madrid for the last 4-5 months and this has been my first chance to go and visit her and Enrique. I’m planning to return again a little closer to summer so I guess I wasn’t so much focused on this trip on the touristy side of Madrid more than catching up and spending time with Mirela (whose Spanish seemed to have improved dramatically since she moved to Madrid. Although many people say she seems to speak it with an Italian accent to me her Spanish seemed practically fluent.) Having said that we did some quick trips around town to see some highlights. In particular when we saw that the weather was so good (when all the weather predictions had said it was going to be heavy rain ALL weekend!) It was even warm enough for me on the first couple of days to go without a jacket. If I’d stayed out long enough in the sun I’m sure I would have even managed a nice tan!

Photos, Photos, Photos.

When? End Jan 2009
Why Go? Great character, Fantastic Food, Lovely People, Beautiful, The Art (if that’s your thing!)
Weather For January surprisingly warm and sunny for the first couple of days then snow (!) on my last day in Madrid!
Hint Madrid is inherently walkable if you’re happy to clock up some miles in your walking shoes. It also has a great public transport system with trips on the metro being only €1 or for ten trips cost only €7.90. Trips from the airport only cost €1 extra.

The Experience

I always find that visiting a city when you’re visiting locals always gives you a different experience to when you’re visiting as a tourist outright. On the one hand you get to have a more genuine experience of what its like living in the city (including homecooked meals), and on the other hand you’re less likely to spend as much time hitting all the tourist sites. Therefore it will be interesting to see what I missed when I come back again for a shorter visit in June! Enrique says that Madrid is totally different in summer to what it is in winter – mainly because in winter it is usually super-cold so most people are indoors but when summer comes its like a whole new city with lots of open air cafes and just a general good mood. Oh, we also met up with Fabrizio and a couple of his Italian mates whilst we were in Madrid which was good timing!

So, some of the highlights of my weekend trip include:

  • Homecooked meals (even if they weren’t really Spanish!) Mirela surprised me on my first night in Madrid with some sushi that she’d specially prepared for me. I appreciated that she went to the trouble to do that. Additionally, we went to Enrique’s parent’s house for dinner one night where his mum whipped up one of her special pizzas. It, along with all the bits and pieces we ate that night, was delicious and I was so full that I didn’t eat again until the following evening! (Bearing in mind that in true Madrileno style we didn’t start eating until nearly 1am …)
  • Plaza Major. This is Madrid’s main square and even in winter had its fair share of visitors .The fact that on this weekend the square was also occupied by a the visiting Andalucian Horse Show probably helped quite a bit. I really liked the character of Plaza Major which included the elegant architecture and also the buskers in the square.
  • Any of the squares and buildings in Madrid. Although I’ve separated out Plaza Major above, in all fairness you’ll be charmed by any of the squares (Puerta del Sol (where you’ll find the centre of the city and Spain and also a statue of Madrid’s emblem the bear and strawberry tree), Plaza de la villa, Plaza de Oriente, Plaza Santa Ana) that you may randomly walk into. All surrounded by gorgeous buildings and with a character of their own you’ll want to spend some time just standing around, or sitting down with a cup of joe, drinking it all in.
  • Chocolateria de San Gines. This is the place to go for chocolate con churros (a thick hot chocolate drink with churros)! At first I wasn’t quite sure what to do with the chocolate – it looked like the kind of think you’d dip things into rather than drink straight up but when the churros were finished I had no choice but to down it and it was delicious. Perfect on a cold winter’s day. The churros were gorgeous too – light and fluffy and crispy. They say it’s the perfect way to end your night too. After having had some I think I’d take chocolate con churro combo over a kebab or KFC any day!
  • The Retiro. Parque del Retiro is the main park of Madrid. I guess think what Hyde Park is to London and what Central Park is to New York. Parque del Buen Retiro is no doubt one of the prettiest parks I’ve seen and what makes it charming that the entire park is the not the same throughout. We didn’t walk the whole thing but where we did I could see that the style and character of it differed as we walked. There was a nice glass building called the Palacio de Cristal, inspired by The Crystal Palace in London, which was hosting some pieces of work by a guy called Josiah McElheny which I really liked. The park is also very popular with couples for a romantic little trist. You could see how people could feel it’s the perfect setting!
  • Templo de Debod was unusual as its not often you’ll find an Egyptian temple in the middle of a European city. It was donated by the Egyption government to the Spanish government for helping in salvaging archeological sites threatened by the construction of the Aswan High Dam. It got pretty crowded inside the temple so we were happy to go outside and instead enjoy the views towards the Palacio Real and surrounds instead.
  • If you’re in the area a visit to check out Estacion de Atocha (train station) is not be missed for two aspects: the indoor botanical garden and also the memorial for the horrific train bombings that killed 191 people and injured nearly 2,000 in March 2004 (a simple but effective memorial.)
  • What I didn’t get around to doing was hit any of the major museums and galleries. Of late I haven’t really been into such culturally significant attractions but Madrid does have some of the most important pieces of art in its museums, including Picasso’s Guernica, which I’m planning to hit next time.

    Eats-wise, because I had a few home-cooked meals I didn’t get to eat out as much I had expected however I made sure to have some tapas, including some tasty potato bravas, but also having some paella and jamon. Jamon is certainly an interesting cured ham that is produced only in Spain. Mirela says that to slice it, because its all done manually, is a very important skill and that often people are employed just to do so!

    I had a great time in Madrid so was very sad be leaving my friend Mirela. Can’t wait to come back again in four month’s time!

    Navajo Joe

    Navajo Joe is a Bar/Restaurant located in Covent Garden serving south-western American cuisine. Walking into the venue you are hit by the extreme funkiness it excudes from the led-lit bar to the two story restaurant area situated along-side and behind the bar and floor to ceiling backdrop. We were escorted to the upper floor of the restaurant where we had a great view over the bar patrons. What was pleasing to me was that although there was music running in the background, that’s what it remained and Rehana and I didn’t need to shout in order to hear each other.

    Our waitress was really friendly and efficient. She was also happy to chat to us all night if she needed to either giving us advice on the menu, bringing out extra dishes etc. Everything on the menu at Navajo Joe was really tempting. I like the fact that with your starters you can choose three smaller samplers for £10 to share between you or, of course, the traditional option of getting one each. We opted to go for the three starters as we wanted to sample a bit of lots of things without being too greedy: Crispy Duck Nachos with Hoisin Sauce (surprisingly a combination that went well but the dish also had quite a bite to it so they must have thrown some chilli into the dish too), Crunchy Catfish Goujons (need I say more – these little deep fried bundles of goodness were delicious. I really liked the catfish flavour too) and Coxina Chicken served with tabasco and lime dressing (these turned out to be like chicken croquettes. Also quite tasty.) I actually would have happily continued snacking on the “amusements” (as they are called) but thought we should check something out from the main menu too.

    The “Southwestern Favourites” on the menu included things like fajitas and enchiladas, but as Rehana rightly pointed out, the most interesting option was the Trio of Fish: which consisted of
    – cajun catfish with pineapple & coconut salsa
    – mexican beer battered sea bass with jalapeño mayo and fries and
    – smoked salmon with crispy capers.

    Hilariously our waitress joked that we’d gone for the healthy option with this trio!

    All three dishes were tasty and I particularly liked the pineapple and coconut salsa. Went surprisingly well with the catfish.

    We both could have happily stopped there but what’s a night out without having desserts as well. Once again the both of us were attracted to the same dish, especially after our waitresses glowing recommendation (she says its her absolutely favourite dessert at Navajo Joe), the Pineapple Tart. I adore pineapple so couldn’t resist. Served with coconut ice-cream it was the perfect light dish to have to finish the meal.

    Having read some so-so reviews on Navajo Joe (some good some bad) I hadn’t set my expectations very high so I was very pleased with how tonight went. We had the perfect service, atmosphere, and the food, not to mention great company – thanks Rehana! The food was the biggest surprise being of much higher quality than I expected and just an absolute joy to consume.

    Goodbye Caz

    It’s been over three year’s since I’ve been to Raoul’s Cafe, either in Notthing Hill or Maida Vale, and back then I went about five times in one year. It was Elvira and Andrew who first introduced me to one of their favourite Sunday morning traditions so it was fitting that I chose it as the sight to say goodbye to Elvira and Andrew’s sister, Caroline.

    Caroline has been around in London for the last couple of years and I’ve had some good holidays with her taking us to Spain and Germany so I’m very sad to see her go. I’m obviously happy for her to pursue her career back in Oz but it always saddens me when a good friend departs the UK to head back home. A trip that no doubt we all make eventually.

    This morning we arrived at Raoul’s in time to avoid the long lines to get in and amazingly this little cafe has not been affected by the credit crunch at all – it was still buzzing. I was pleased to see that Raoul’s Cafe hadn’t really changed much either in terms of atmosphere, decoration and food. The eggs are still as deep yellow/orange as ever and still serving some fantastic shakes.

    Nice brunch venue.

    Amazonia at the Young Vic

    The concept behind the Young Vic and I guess also the Old Vic is the accessibility of the theatre to all-comers. This means a small theatre and unreserved seating. To some extent someone like me is filled with apprehension with not having concrete seats but I guess it generates some sort of excitement and guesswork about where to sit. They promise at the Young Vic that you are never more than seven rows from the front. At today’s Amazonia I was on the “stall” level and was in the back row (by choice) and it was only five rows from the front of the stage. I probably should have asked the ushers where to sit rather than sitting randomly as I ended up sitting near the band! Amazonia didn’t lend itself to a traditional “front” of the stage anyway as it’s a circular stage so really any seat was a good seat this evening.

    For tonight’s show, and quite possibly most shows, there were at least two giant groups in attendance – one of around grade three age kids (maybe 40+ of them) and one group of slightly order kids (around about 15 years old.) I asked one of the ushers if she’d seen the show and said yes – its good for kids. Then I asked her what about adults and she laughed and said “you’ll see!”

    I’d gotten to the show quite early so had quite some time to look around the venue. The band “pit” was very interesting and they had all sorts of weird and wonderful instruments, native to Brazil I imagine, in there. There were lots of wooden sticks, shells and what not. There were only three people in the band so I imagine it was quite a job for them to co-ordinate who would play what at various stages.

    So, basically, other than being a bit distracted by the fact that the cast had all sorts of different accents, none of which are actually native to the Amazon basin I’m sure, and not really being able to understand the first part of the performance, Amazonia turned out to be quite a good story and show. It tells the tale of a small village which attempts to save the Amazon from de-forestation.

    The show uses all sorts of technique to get the story across including an acrobat who spun down in two curtains and proceeded to both sing opera and gyrate around in her curtains, splashing water on the crowd at various stages of the show (I’m glad I avoided the Splash Zone because they certainly got a soaking), singing and dancing, including a beautiful performance piece between the main female and her young lover (her young lover was tremendously and mouth-wateringly fit. Oh my!), and even a male on male kiss (though it was a simulation of a man resuscitating a bull – don’t even ask!)
    The in-the-round works quite well actually in this type of show and allows the cast to really get around physically. It was funny because the cast would often run, at full pelt, right to the edge of the stage only to stop themselves at the last minute and I could see the school kids reeling back with real fear (and excitement) in their eyes at the thought the cast would fall off the stage!

    I quite enjoyed the performance and I think it was actually based on a real life story. This show is really what theatre is all about. Sure the big West End polished huge musicals are great but this is about the little guy and making the most of what you have (I would presume a much smaller budget for one!) Whilst not exactly experimental theatre it was clear that the writer thought pretty creatively on this one. Great score too!

    Theo Randall at the Intercontinental

    Sandra and I felt a bit intimidated going into the Intercontinental firstly because it was on Park Lane but secondly because there appeared to be paparazzi at the event and a red carpet. Presumably it was a party to celebrate Obama’s inauguration. However I decided to take the bull by the horns and waltz into the hotel lobby to try to find our restaurant. What’s the worst that could happen – that our rejection would be captured on memory card by the pap? Ha ha.

    Luckily we did because we were in the correct place after all. We got there for 6.30 and there were not many other diners in there, with perhaps one or two tables with one or two individuals. It’s an attractive space with quite a long bar and what looked like a bar dedicated to the cheese. The kitchen is located behind the bars and, although not exactly open, is able to be viewed from tables via a long stretch of window. I didn’t see my mate Theo though I wasn’t expecting him to remember me from our Food Poker encounter. 🙂

    I think Theo is fairly classic Italian. It uses a lot of ingredients and I guess I can see his influence on the River Café menu or is it vice versa (when looking at the menu I had flashbacks to River Café experience for some reason.) We had a simple set menu booked courtesy of toptable which was 2 for £21 or 3 for £25. Admittedly the set menu had a more limited offering than what’s on the a la carte menu but it’s a significant saving when you consider that antipastis/primis on the a la carte menu are around about £13 and mains start at about £25 with desserts topping out the menu at £7.

    We were given some free bread after we’d ordered which I wasn’t expecting in the form of very nice bruschetta (the tomatoes were so sweet they almost tasted like bell peppers that had been roasted) and a garlic bread of sorts. The garlic bread was quite dense and super salty though extremely delicious. The only thing with the breads was that we were left with very oily fingers afterwards. Happily our waitress even offered us more though, in a smart move, we said no despite how delicious the breads were. (I say smart move as at the end of the meal, when I could have happily stopped after my second course steak, I was very very full.)

    For my first course, tossing up between a red and yellow pepper risotto or ravioli stuffed with swiss chard and ricotta, I decided on the ravioli on the recommendation of the waitress. It was served rather simply, just garnished in olive oil, which I guess is how ravioli should be served. So you can enjoy the stuffing without interference from sauce. They were yummy!

    Both Sandra and I decided on steak for our main meal. Cooked medium rare it was also served with mushrooms and, as it turned out, a mountain high pile of rocket! I was actually expecting a small steak serving considering we were dining from the specials menu but it was more generous than I thought. A more than adequate portion of steak and also heaps of mushroom. We’d also opted for a side of roasties to share between us. They were gorgeous – garnished with rosemary and garlic – these little babies were exactly what you’d expect: golden crispy on the outside and soft and fluffy (almost to the point you couldn’t fork it into your mouth but rather had to spoon it in)

    For desserts once again Sandra and my tastes were aligned with the pear and almond tart. A decent slice of what seemed to be quite a big pie – it was perfect. The shell or outer casing was melt in your mouth though admittedly quite thick up on the sides. It was served with some crème freche which I was more than happy to leave by the way-side as it tasted a bit odd. I was expecting the tart to be warmed but it was served nearly cold.

    Quite happy with the service we weren’t bothered too much at all (in fact this was nearly an issue as we tried to find someone to request the bill) but strangely in a fine dining restaurant such as Theo Randall there wasn’t a check back after we were served our main courses to “see if everything was alright.”

    Theo Randall delivers quality Italian although a touch on the pricey side. However, having said that, you won’t find this kind of quality food in your local takeaway Italian. The diners next to us (a group of four men who were surprisingly happy to share all their dishes between themselves) looked to have some very interesting dishes off the a la carte menu, which we unfortunately didn’t see but I snuck a look at on the way out, which they all seemed to like of if their sounds of approval were anything to go by.

    Georgetown

    Pat, Ben and I headed to London Bridge to sample some Malaysian from the Georgetown restaurant tonight but the restaurant wasn’t exactly what I expected. It was very quiet, we were the only diners and only a couple more joined us by the time we left, so we had the full attention of staff including eagerly offering us repeat drink orders when they could see we were nearly done with our current ones. A bit annoying and presumptions but maybe in their eyes considered good service (on the side all the waiters were Indian so I’m wondering if the same held true for the kitchen!)

    I’m not sure if we were given a different menu because we’d booked through a 50% toptable offer but the menu we received was quite brief – it gave four starters, four mains and four desserts. Didn’t really leave much room considering we’d all decided to share our food!

    Starters: Prawn Tempura, Penang Curry and Indian Mee Gorent
    Mains: Rendang Dagin, Roti Dan and Kari Ayam

    Our food was pretty tasty though I would have objected to paying full price for the dishes. Seemed a bit pricey for what they were charging. I actually liked the fact that on our mains – three different curries – we all got very different garnishings. Ben got a very strange orange and kiwi fruit garnishing on his curry dish. The beef rendang was particularly tasty.

    Overall I’m glad we had Malaysian tonight as I’m a big fan of it though I would have preferred more variety on the menu.

    Fatkins’ Housewarming/30th

    Fatkins’ has done what I haven’t so far – bought some property! It was a bit a chore at the time but he says he was really lucky in that the first place he saw was the one he wanted. I’m still in the process of looking but can’t find anything yet! (And that’s before even seeing whether I can afford to buy a place!)

    So, to celebrate his being able to finally move in and feel settled in his new home, plus with his 30th just around the corner, he had a few of us over to rock the neighbourhood. 🙂

    Some pics from the night courtesy of Wongo: