Heston’s Dinner

As with any new celebrity chef offering, especially when the chef in question is one Heston Blumenthal, there has been plenty of hype surrounding the opening of “Dinner”. Opened in January this year in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel at Knightsbridge “Dinner”, potentially confusing when planning a lunch date, pays homage to food from Britain’s historical times and features dishes inspired by recipes reaching as far back as the 14th century. Tonight Sandra, Jenny and James C also came along for the trip back in time.

If you’re taken on the right path, the walk to your table is impressive. The surrounds are well plush, as one would expect I guess from a hotel in Knightsbridge, but the most pleasing aspect and drawcard is that the kitchen is an open one although thankfully, for our clothes, behind giant glass windows! (My brother would be super-excited by the Josper grill.) As you pass by on your way to your table you can see the pineapples happily roasting away in preparation for the numerous Tipsy Pineapple Cake orders which are surely to follow. I also was enjoying the jelly mould light fixtures which gave the serious room a bit of a quirkiness.

Be warned for those expecting to experience a little bit of Fat Duck at “Dinner” – you will be disappointed! Yes these recipes from the 14th century have been innovated and updated but not to the same level of gastronomic magic at Fat Duck. The closest you will get is the ‘Meat Fruit’ and this is a definite must order for the table. Lucky for me I was able to have the best of all worlds when James ordered the Meat Fruit leaving me to be able to sample other delights on the menu.

Service at first was excellent. Heaps of staff (maybe too many) saying hellos and goodbyes, circulating around us, serving us water, bread (a giant loaf of sourdough) but then it seemed to taper off through the meal – water glasses started to remain empty, the wait staff delivering the food seemed nervous or something (one girl nearly tiped my plate of dessert over because rather than move to an easier spot to allow her to put the plate down she opted for trying to reach across the table instead – a bit baffling.) Even though the restaurant has been opened for 8-9 months I’m surprised that front of house felt like it hadn’t quite got things going smoothly yet.

So what about the food?

I can’t really speak much for what the others (except for the sublime Meat Fruit) had but I will attach the photos. It is fair to say that prices are a little on the overpriced side, in particular for starters and sides. For mains they were mnre fair and you could easily do with a main each with shared side (of gorgeous chunky fat chips) if you choose wisely (Black Foot pork chop!)

As I keep harping on, the Meat Fruit is the singular most amazing dish on the menu. The best of the rest were simply good in comparison. A very light chicken liver parfait covered in a very thin shell of mandarin jelly this dish was simply incredible. I was so very happy that James was nice enough to let me taste some – if I had ordered the dish (and knowing how incredible it was) I doubt I would have been quite so generous! Visually appealing to the eye too though if there was one thing the dish needed it was more bread!

My “Rice & Flesh” was more exotic sounding than it actually was – basically a posh risotto with the saffron, the calf tail and the red wine. It looked fabulous all vibrantly yellow and glossy. It was cooked almost to perfection – just slighlty over-salted I felt and could have done with more protein (that’s right I’m looking at you calf tail.)

For mains I would say that my Black Foot pork chop was the winner in the categories that really count: taste and value for money. I was worried that such a big fat piece of pork chop would be tough and dry (and even worse, rare towards the middle) but again the kitchen shined through with its skills and what I bit into was gorgeously juicy tender mouthfuls of lovely pork. Winner: Josper Grill. Great texture and perfectly seasoned. It was also served with the most gorgeous barley “carb”. There was this transparent almost onion skin type thing laying on top of the barley which was strange-looking but tasty. The fat cut chips we ordered for sides were decent and had that perfectly double-cooked-ness you want in such a chip.

Tipsy Cake is no doubt the sexy celebrity of the dessert offerings. Both Sandra and Jenny fell to its charms. I opted for a more sedate but adventurous sounding brown bread concoction (nice without pushing too many dessert boundaries.) For me the tipsy cake was just on the wrong side of too much alcohol which I felt overpowered the whole dish. It also failed my requirement of coming with ice cream which I think would have balanced the dish perfectly and offset the super sweetness of the brioche and pineapple. Without the ice cream or other counter-balance it felt like it was a serve of sugar with a side of sugar.

A meal was nicely finished off with a petit four of white chocolate ganache with taste of Earl Grey and caraway seed biscuit. Gotta love the free stuff.

Overall I found that Dinner was a pleasant experience. You may have to ride a few ups and downs with the service but if you come here mentally prepared that you will not be getting the scientific food trickery that is often associated with Heston and instead look forward to some good quality chow (and choosing the right dishes) you will should be delighted.

UPDATE: Gained a Michelin Star in October 2011 and jumped straight up to Number 9 on The World’s 50 Best restaurant’s list for 2012. Someone must have been impressed.

La Trompette

It felt just a little bit naughty today to be taking an extended lunch break to meet Laney for lunch at Michelin-rated La Trompette in Chiswick. Even though I was legitimately away from work I had the same feeling that I would get if I’d been wagging the day off from school (not that I ever did that of course ;-))

Lunches are a great way to get that fine dining experience for a lower price – sure you’re not getting the full experience of a sumptuous tasting menu but three courses is certainly more than enough to give you a flavour at least for a restaurant. We’d chosen a beautiful day for lunch at the La Trompette and we were happily seated right by the floor to ceiling windows/doors so had great natural lighting and view out on to the road.

Food at La Trompette was not only gorgeous to look at but it also gorgeous to devour. I had a tough time choosing my dishes by the way as everything sounded equally delicious.

Here are our starters of Rare Grilled Tuna with sauce vierge, celery and black pepper crème fraiche (Laney’s dish) and Roast Quail with spiced aubergine couscous, orange, pomegranate, pine nuts and coriander. I love how they did the quail two ways on my dish. Doesn’t everything look just so scrumptious!

The mains that followed were Parmesan gnocchi with ceps, cauliflower polonaise, baby artichokes and truffle pecorino (Laney’s dish) and Daube de boeuf a la bourguignonne with pomme puree and spinach. I was actually torn between the gnocchi dish that Laney ended up with and my dish but the fact that I generally dislike gnocchi pushed me over to the beef choice. To be fair the gnocchi was pretty good for gnocchi as it had been infused with the parmesan and, if not fried, toasted to a good consistency. My beef was perfectly tender and juicy.

Finally we finished with Crème brulee and Lemon grass panna cotta with passion fruit, pineapple and coconut madeleines. A very lovely finish to our meals! Oh, but wait, they also presented us with petit fours of miniature warmed melty chocolatey cakes (okay I don’t know the technical term!) Not the grandest of petit fours granted but enough for us after the very rich meal we’d just consumed.

Service at La Trompette was efficient and friendly but it did suffer from that thing that seems to happen when the restaurant gets busy – somehow we kept losing our waitress and the service dropped off every so slightly (but noticeable enough) in terms of how slow/fast they were. On the plus they didn’t rush us to leave the restaurant long after we’d finished our meal.

Rasoi Vineet Bhatia

So technically my birthday is right around the corner but, except for my 30th, I’m not normally one who likes to celebrate. On the other hand, I’ll take any excuse to go out for a nice meal. Heh heh. Groupon had nicely co-operated by offering an excellent deal (half price on their tasting menu before service) on 1-Michelin starred Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, a very small and intimate, well hidden, Indian restaurant in Chelsea. Rehana had cause to comment it was almost like having a meal in someone’s dining room. You even have to buzz to gain access like you’re visiting a friend’s home for dinner. I quite liked the vibe, and despite the fact the weather wasn’t the greatest, appreciated the sky light that sat above our table. As a result of the intimate surrounds you are a lot closer to your fellow diners than is comfortable but with about 20 people in our room max it didn’t get too loud or overwhelming and thankfully no shouting required to be heard.

Rasoi Vineet Bhatia’s Indian style is best described as fusion in the way that Benares is, but more.

We started off with our “bread” course of pappadam with Mint and Mango Chutneys and two amuse bouche – which was a short of watermelon with spices mixed in and this beautiful mouthful of something which I unfortunately cannot remember the name of but Rehana said was the restaurant’s posh and refined take on some typical Indian dish. Incredibly delicious. If every dish was as good as these pre-starters then we were in for a real treat. And we were!

Spinach tikka chaat and warm potato-pomegranatea chaat were our first courses. The potato-pomeranate chaat in particular was a winner in this dish (the one on the left) – it was both sweet and spicy and tangy and all ingredients (not sure what the mysterious green sauce was) were so well in combination together. I wanted more but new that with six dishes to come, even if they weren’t going to be huge, I would have to pace myself.

Lamb dominated the next course and though not a fan of the meat found myself liking Gilafi lamb seekh kebab, lime lamb samosa served with herb and olive chutney respectively. Interesting ingredients to use in this dish.

And we come to what undoubtedly was my favourite dish of the night Wild mushroom and truffle oil laced khichdi (rice with lentils or simlar) sitting below Tomato “Makhni” ice cream. I could not go into just how amazing and exquisite the khichdi was and the tomato ice cream surprisingly did well to complement the dish. Incredible.

Apologies for the lighting on the next series of photos. The restaurant decided that it would be a good time to start some romance! Grilled Gun powder crusted sea bass, curry leaf upma, Moilee sauce, coconut chutney. After the amazing dish that had come before, everything following was going to pale in comparison to be honest but the sea bass did try its best. Taken alone it was a solid dish, sea bass was perfectly cooked and again had that touch of sweet and sour in the moilee sauce and the coconut chutney. Really good-sized portion on the sea bass too. Normally you’d get only mouthful sized portions on a tasting menu.

A melon and black pepper sorbet came next to cleanse the palette. I was happy that the chef continued to use distinctively different ingredients from the norm.

Then, as the finale to the savoury dishes, a bit of theatre with our Smoke cloud-Punjabi herb chicken tikka, Biryani rice, Sambhar sauce and “Salli” potatoes (though Rehana swapped her chicken for a paneer. Again another good solid and fun dish. Chicken was so tender and juicy and just the right level of smokiness leant to the tikka.

We were really quite satisfied at this point but had our final dish, dessert, to go. Cheekily called the Chocomosa: Warm marbled chocolate samosa with fresh rose petal-vanilla bean ice cream. Sooo good. Think fondue but inside a samosa wrapper and also mixed in white chocolate. The rose ice cream worked very well with this dish.

Petit fours wrapped up a pretty incredible dining experience at Rasoi. Food-wise there can be no complaints – all top-quality, well-thought out dishes that tasted incredible. Its not the kind of place that mixes ingredients just for the sake of being different – every ingredient was truly considered to see what it would add to the dish. From a service perspective the wait-staff were incredibly efficient and friendly and gladly not in our faces at every moment! Just the right level of service with the commitment to adjust our menu and their service to our needs.

The only minor drawback I would have in recommending this place is the price. At full price the restaurant is tre expensive – at £85 the tasting menu brings it up into nearly the same price category as such 2-Michelin starred restaurants as The Ledbury (http://www.thekua.com/sista/?p=13436) which is a big promise to deliver on something big. And they do deliver, only people might be reluctant to pay that much for Indian food, however fine it is. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend as a special occasion venue.

Viajante

When Viajante hit my to-eat list it was before it was awarded its Michelin star, and the reason I added it to my list was that it promised El Bulli / Fat Duck-esque type exploration of food without the El Bulli / Fat Duck-esque prices. It was supposed to be exciting, innovative, challenging. It’s a shame I didn’t get to visit before it was awarded its star this year, so I can never really know what impact the award has had in the restaurant.

Nevertheless, I thought it would be a nice restaurant to take Sandra to for her birthday.

Viajante is located in what used to be Bethnal Green’s Old Town Hall – a beautiful edifice, now also converted to a Hotel – and inside it is light and airy and actually a lot more casual than you would imagine. The kitchen is an open kitchen though those in the second room, like us, can only catch a glimpse because of the wall in between.

Rather cutely the wine list is incorporated into a “100 Great Wonders of the World” book to reinforce the “Traveler” theme of the restaurant (viajante is traveler in Portugese.) The personal touches of the restaurant came in little things like being given a bag hook … though rather oddly we were only given one … and bringing out free champers to celebrate Sandra’s birthday. 🙂

The first innovation that was evident in the restaurant was the bread. We were served hot potato bread served with two brown butters – one with crispy potato and black pudding and one with crispy chicken, iberica ham and potato powder. Neither were overwhelming in flavour but were sufficiently different to put them into a nice for a change category.

We were then served two amuse bouche: “Thai Explosion II” which consisted of crispy chicken skin on one side, coconut something on the other and chicken confit and quail egg and the second this Home Made Cheese with Peas and Spring Flowers. The first dish was great but the second dish was, despite how pretty it looked, was very plain tasting, except for the crust of salt! It was like tofu it had so little flavour.

Then it was on to our 6-Course tasting lunch. First course was Mackerel, cream sponge, preserved lemon and wood sorrel dressing. Not a fan of this sadly. The cream sponge rather oddly had the consistency and taste of the home-made cheese from our amuse bouche (namely flavourless and rather like tofu), and the mackerel was much too strong tasting for me, and I like fish! Both Sandra and I agree that the best part of this dish was the preserved lemon. It was the tiniest part of the dish but the best tasting!

The second dish continued on with the looking pretty but containing mild flavour concept. White, green and wild asparagus with milk skin. Very disappointingly bland! Though the clear jelly like “sauce” poured at the table around our dish did have a good asparagus flavour.

A photo break

And on to more food. This is a better close-up of the dish that is sitting in front of Sandra. Acorda de camarao (Confit egg yolk, Japanese prawn, fennel, and bread salsify.) This was very interesting and very rich. The egg yolk had been perfectly cooked and the prawns were fresh. Not sure I was feeling the bread salsify. I’ve had a bit too much of that this year.

The next dishes came as a pair – Bacalhau dos Mundos (Cod of the Worlds). The first thing to come to our table were two orange peels which was part of part one of the dish. Cod influenced by Japan, orange and tomato water, dill , seaweed, orange peel spritzed. Yeah, I couldn’t see the code either.

Part two was nicer – Cod from Portugal with crispy onion and potato and caramelised onion. This was really really lovely! The texture from the crispy onion did well to offset the silken texture of the cod.

Moving on to our meat dish (and our final savory dish) – lamb with coffee, macadamia and broad beans. I’m not a huge fan of lamb but this was actually my favourite dish at lunch. It was so full of flavour and contrasts. Everything that had come before it, with probably the exception of the second part of the cod dish and our amuse, was just too sub-par on the flavour levels.

Desserts were a delight. First a pannacotta ice cream with shiso granite and green apple cubes. I just didn’t like the bowl it came in – because it felt horrible to scoop from, it was like someone running their nails down a blackboard.

Reduced ilk ice cream, condensed milk, cucumber raw, smoked and pickled and black sesame made up our final dessert. I was rather surprised that, despite the different ingredients, that it was very similar to the first dessert. Thought it could have been taken into a totally different direction.

The petit four were interesting – there was a shot glass of cinnamon something, a jelly and then a mushroom (cep) truffle. What? A really odd flavour on the tongue!

So, food was quite below my expectations at Viajante. I was expecting to be stunned, to be surprised, to be excited but I wasn’t. Sure, I could see that there was an attempt to challenge our preconceptions of how food should be delivered and combined but from a flavour-perspective it just didn’t deliver. This was the greatest disappointment of the day. In all other aspects it was an enjoyable experience – the food looked good (though was quite minimalist), the restaurant had a nice relaxed atmosphere, food was pricey (£50 for the 6 courses) but filtered water was free and they didn’t overcharge on our soft drinks, and finally service was great throughout the meal, everyone made an effort to say happy birthday to Sandra and we were each given a menu upon leaving.

Perhaps we just visited on an off day for the kitchen. Reviews seem mixed as to whether food delivers on taste – would I come back again? The jury is still out on that one.

Ristorante Semplice

Ristorante Semplice is a one-michelin starred rated Italian here in London that I hadn’t really heard about until the offer came upon on groupon. £35 for the seven course tasting menu (normally £85) was too good a bargain for Jenny and I to ignore. I was surprised at how easy it was too book a meal – normally with these offers it’s a near impossibility!

Upon first sitting down we were given these very thinly sliced baked vegetables (so thin and fine that it was almost like eating air), parmesan puffs and thin crisp bread. A couple of the pieces were threaded with olive or tomato juice. All very cute but I particularly enjoyed the parmesan puffs which were at one strangely sweet and salty.

Then the bread came! Options of foccacia (rosemary and thyme), tomato bread, and brown bread and another which I can’t remember. Interestingly bread offered right up until it was dessert time. Conscious of not getting over full on breads I tried to resist the bread but it was so delicious … lucky we didn’t have to wait too long for …

Carne di manza Fassone all’ Albese – Fassone carpaccio ‘Alba Style’. When this was brought to the table it was also served with salad “mash”. I know. The carpaccio itself was not very strongly flavoured for me. Jenny detected the hint of lemon or citrus which she enjoyed – but I felt it was bland.

The next dish had more flavour. Coda di rospo alla Milanese con panzanella di lattuga cappuccino e uova di quaglia or Baby monkfish “Milanese” served with gem lettuce “panzanella” style and soft quail eggs. Individually quite delicious though I didn’t understand the necessity of having the monkfish breaded and fried, and the panzanella was slightly too vinegary. Oh and it might have been nice to have both halves of the quail egg …

The Passata di carote, tortelli di ricotta di bufala e arancia – Carrot soup, buffalo ricotta cheese and orange tortelli we received next was one of my favourite dishes of the night. Great taste in the carrot soup and the tortelli had an interesting hit of cheese chased by the orange. Very different!

I love love love ragout so the next dish of Sedanini all’uovo con ragu’ di capriolo e salsa al cavolo nero – homemade egg sedanini pasta with venison ragout and black cabbage sauce was right up my alley. Gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous flavouring – all three items worked very well in balance. The black cabbage sauce was strangely verdant!

From quite a high to something a little less dramatic and exciting. San Pietro con passata di ceci di Spello e spinaci saltati – John Dory served with “Spello” chickpea sauce and sautéed spinach. Chickpea would not have been my choice to go with this but overall a well cooked dish.

Desserts started with Frittella di mela golden, crema inglese alla canella e gelatina di mela. Apple fritters (there was only one!) with cinnamon custard cream (delicious) and apply jelly (very fresh and strongly flavoured). Disappointing that the fritter tasted very strongly of oil so not sure it was fresh.

Of course the finale had to be something with chocolate. Fondente di cioccolato Domori, pannacotta alla grapapa, pan di spezie e sorbetto al cioccolato. “Domori” chocolate fondant served with grappa pannacotta, crispy spice bread and chocolate sorbet. Perfectly melty fondant and surprisingly light. I particularly liked the croutons which were nice and caramelly.

Some cute, if not exciting, petit fours.

We had an enjoyable time at Ristorante Semplice. The name might be simple but the food tonight certainly wasn’t. Complex and intense flavourings for the most part in the food gave us a different spin on traditional Italian dishes. The service was efficient (pleasingly water was topped up without noticing – except towards the end) and friendly with lots of preggos, you’re welcome, pleases, etc. however I felt they didn’t properly explain the food to us. Food was delivered with a nice “Here is your monkfish and quail eggs” when actually it was more than just that and I felt it would have been better if they had gone into more depth about the food. Great value for money on the groupon deal, probably a touch on the expensive otherwise.

Eleven Madison Park, New York

Eleven Madison Park (wikipedia discloses that owner Danny Meyer also counts Shake Shack in his stable!) entered this year’s S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants in the world at #50 but in my opinion deserves a ranking much higher and it also deserves more than just its one Michelin Star.

Since we had been splurging a bit on our meals this past week we thought we should dial it back some and opt for having lunch at Eleven Madison Park which, at four courses for $74, may seem pricey for a lunch was a bit more economical for us than what I presume was a similar menu at dinner for $125! Having said that every $ we spent at lunch today was worth it and more.

The restaurant has a very cool concept for its menu, designed by the winner of this year’s James Beard “Best Chef: NYC”, Daniel Humm. The menu (hidden within our serviette) consists of sixteen ingredients from which you choose three or four to form your tasting menu but the cooking is left up to the chefs. So, this allows you to indulge in a surprise tasting menu but still with some measure of control. The menu changes on a regular basis and for today’s lunch our menu was thus:

In theory you can choose any three or four ingredients you want for your meal, so if you really wanted you could order all dessert type ingredients (such as the chevre, coconut, lemon and chocolate) or all meat (chicken, pork, lamb and beef.) In reality you’re more likely to choose something from each grouping (cold, hot, meat, dessert) to ensure you have a balanced meal. If this really confuses you the wait-staff are very friendly and not at all condescending when explaining the menu – and they can offer you advice on which ingredients work well together if you’re stuck for inspiration.

Where the menu for Eleven Madison Park is minimalist you could hardly have said the same for the décor of the restaurant, the involvement of the staff, the drinks and, most importantly, the food. I absolutely loved the fact that everything was branded with the Eleven Madison Park logo which consist of cute outlines of various leaves from the menu, to the panels along the wall, to the etchings in the revolving door entrance. Oh and the butters too (one was from goat’s milk – odd tasting – and the other cow’s milk)! As an added bonus, even though there only two of us, they sat us at a table fit for four with both of us facing into the room so that neither of us had our back to the room – super like!

So, I’ve written over 400 words and I haven’t even started talking about the food. That’s how excited I was about my visit to the restaurant today. Everything about the experience was just so fun and enjoyable! But fear not, the food porn is about to begin!

Whilst deciding on drinks and the menu the first items to be brought out were some melt-in-your-mouth incredible delicate cheese puffs. Jenny – you would have adored these!

Drinks were interesting propositions. Our drink waiter was so enthusiastic about the Hot Buttered Rum that Pat couldn’t resist going for that whilst my drink of choice was the Orange Julius (kind of like a liquid version of orange ice cream!). Interesting and delicious as our drinks were, we soon pushed these to the side when our meal started in earnest.

The Amuse Bouche

Chicken veloute with toasted brioches and black truffle butter was first up. The veloute was served in a tea cup and poured out of a tea pot (for entertainment one presumes). Both items balanced each other well and I was pleased that the veloute was perfectly seasoned.

Smoked sturgeon sabayon hot chive oil was served in a egg shell with its top cut off perfectly straight and whilst this was good the item that followed next was just trufflicious, a slow poached egg, poached in truffle in an air tight container, and then covered in white truffle foam. A group of four people arrived to have lunch a little later than we did and one or two of them must have had some fussiness/food dislikes over the ingredients they could have and we saw that they missed out on this particular treat and other wonders. Such a shame when you go to a restaurant as explorative as Eleven Madison Park and you can’t indulge in absolutely everything or anything the chef throws at you!

After our trio of amuse bouche had been served we were then given some bread and butter (the aforementioned goat’s milk and cow’s milk butters, the fussy table got olive oil instead …) Bread was satisfyingly served warm.

Then we were on to our meal proper.

The Meal Proper

Undeniably the best dish of the lunch had to have been Pat’s Foie Gras (first two pictures) served two ways: in a terrine served with pearl onions and pineapple and then, in a twist of brilliance, as a crème brulee with toasted brioche. The terrine was good with the tartness of the pineapple cutting through the richness but the crème brulee was just stunning. Pat was nice enough to let me have a taste, not sure I would have been so generous! Ha ha! Something about the crusty burnt sugar flavour really did something to emphasise but contrast with the creaminess of the foie gras custard underneath.

My Turbot served fairly simply with sundried tomatoes, beans and fennel was lovely and fresh.

I stuck to the seafood theme for my next course with Nova Scotia Lobster served with roasted and candied chestnuts and spiced squash sauce. Pat had a crab with lemon juice and fresh tagliatelle pasta. Pat reports that the pasta couldn’t have been fresher and there was certainly a lot of crab (the only neg being two spots of very small crab shell!)

I can never go past a pork dish on most menus and it was no exception. Pork was served three ways, as a sausage, roasted pork belly and a kind of braised loin (I think!) This dish was served with mustard seeds, interestingly pear, and also sauerkraut and baby onions. Crackling on the pork belly was cooked to perfection.

Pat had a lamb dish served strangely with apple. Apparently it worked well!

Before moving on to our dessert we had a pre-dessert which was the restaurant’s take on the Kir royal with cassis sorbet champagne foam and meringue. It was served on this plate which looked like a pillow so it kind of highlighted the lightness and frothiness of the pre-dessert.

Coconut was the ingredient and inspiration for my dessert and consisted of toasted coconut flakes, coconut ice cream (divine), pineapple ice cream and caramelised chunks of pineapple. Did anyone say pina colada? Very refreshing and an ideal way to round off the meal.

Pat had an equally refreshing Lemon dessert. Pat considered this the weakest of the dishes but I thought he’d love it for the lemon curd, lemon sorbet, lemon cake crumbs and poppy seed shortbread. Perhaps there was too much lemon going on.

I don’t know if you’d consider them petit fours but immediately after our desserts were cleared we were presented with an almond peanut tulle but more fun a peanut banana sorbet lollipop! At this stage we were winding down and had asked for the bill (which came was delivered in a beautifully hand written form) but our waitress had a surprise for us! Don’t think she was expecting us to ask for the bill quite so quickly!

The Special Treat

Just to set the scene a little – all during our lunch service the service was attentive and friendly. Even when the wait-staff weren’t serving us drinks or checking on us they would walk by and on occasion make light conversation – but they did it in a manner that seemed entirely natural and not at all forced. I think our food was also delivered by chefs – but chefs or wait staff alike they all certainly knew their food, always a sign of an excellent restaurant. At any rate the staff must have seen how excited we were about dining at the restaurant because our surprise was … a tour of the kitchen! We were brought to stand behind what appeared to be a table laid out – it was at chest height and had a white tablecloth over it and two spoons.

I wasn’t really thinking about the table whilst the various aspects of the kitchen and the chefs were explained to us. I couldn’t believe how many chefs there were – there must have been at least ten hovering around the dessert area alone! Despite this it was an oasis of calm it seemed – no shouting and rushing around, all very neat and calm and organised.

And then, to top this all off, one of the dessert chefs then came over to make us a surprise extra item – a meringue, popping candy and sorbet dish made with the aid of liquid nitrogen (of course). This really was a fantastic personal touch (though they must do it sufficiently regularly if they had a table in the kitchen) and this left us on a definite high when we left the restaurant nearly three hours after we first sat down. I can’t say enough good things about the restaurant I certainly hope it gets the recognition it deserves.

Gramercy Tavern, New York

I’m slowly but surely making my way through the New York food scene and today’s victim was Gramercy Tavern as we took our cousins out for a nice meal. Gramercy Tavern is a very popular “American tavern” as it describes itself and comprises the casual Tavern and the formal Dining Room.

The Tavern’s menu, today at least, did look a little bit more interesting but it was looking pretty busy (its where they get most of their walk-up customers) and our booking was for the formal Dining Room. The Dining room was a little quieter and though less laid-back than the Tavern still had a quite quaint cosy comfortable feel.

Okay, so be prepared for a few pictures of our food here with four meals to consider! In clock-wise order from the top left are Kathleen’s, Penny’s, Pat’s and my dishes:

  • Calamari & Carrot Salad, Toasted Pine Nuts and Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette
  • Red King Crab, Sunchokes and Apple
  • Red Kuri Squash Soup, Brussels Sprouts and Apples
  • Cauliflower, Red Quinoa, Prunes and Peanuts

I can’t speak for the other dishes, but the Cauliflower dish was amazing. You wouldn’t think cauliflower could feature as the main and primary ingredient in a dish but it can – and I think its definitely a vegetable that I’ve seen feature more and more often.

Our mains

  • Sea Bass, Squash, Pumpkin Seeds and Currants
  • Pork Croquette, Red Cabbage, Aji Dulce Peppers and Spiced Port Sauce
  • Braised Lamb Shoulder, Heirloom Beans, Wild Mushrooms and Brussels Sprouts
  • Roasted Hanger Steak, Fingerling Potatoes, Red Russian Kale and Bourbon Sauce

The dishes all looked super lovely and I would have been happy with eating any of them. I was happy, however, that my hangar steak made a nice contrast to my vegetable starter. Steak was cooked pretty much to perfection though perhaps the bourbon sauce could have had slightly more of a bite.

And then of course we finished with dessert.

  • Warm Chocolate Bread Pudding. Cacao Nib Ice Cream
  • Sticky Toffee Fig Cake, Coffee Ice Cream
  • Peanut Butter Semifreddo, Chocolate Macaroon
  • Dried Cherry Cheesecake, Black Pepper Butter Cookie and Cherry Lemon Sorbet

Brilliant creations by Pastry Chef Nancy Olson. I went for my dessert mainly because of the black pepper butter cookie (there wasn’t as much pepper as I was expecting) but really loved the cheesecake. Rich without being overly heavy. I think Pat’s peanut butter Sandwich was certainly the most interesting dessert but, like the mains, I would have been happy with any of the other desserts too. I’m so greedy 😉

Petit fours were extremely cute an included a peanut butter truffle, orange and dark choc square and a mini macaroon.

Service overall at Gramercy Tavern was friendly if not particularly excellent (on this occasion at least.) Negatives included the fact they were stingy with the bread for our table (only one bread roll brought at the beginning and we saw another customer basically grab the waiter so he could ask for another), sometimes slow on filling up water, no explanation of food being given and really slow to bring out menus (especially between the end of our mains and delivery of desserts). The attention from waiters started to drop off as we slowly got to the end of our meal, which is always a frustrating thing. Positives included replacement/additional drink – upon making a mistake with one of our drinks (which we didn’t realise they’d even made) they were quick to bring an additional quick replacement, staff being good at directing you to the toilets and they didn’t mind photos being taken.

Overall I would recommend Gramercy Tavern on the strength of its food, even if the service was slightly hit and miss.

WD-50

We were all set to head out to Daniel for dinner tonight. Daniel is chef Daniel Boulud’s first and flagship restaurant, recipient of 3-Michelin stars, currently New York’s number 1 restaurant according to the 2010 S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in the World awards, etc. etc. (I could go on forever.) But then, the snows came. What started with small flurries yesterday afternoon:

ended up being a pretty serious snow dump and by the time we got up this morning (we had been planning on heading into to town to do a tour of Brooklyn) we weren’t even sure we’d be able to leave the house to get into the Big City at all.

Constantly checking the metro and the roads outside (we had to rely on houses clearing their front paths) we knew we’d be stuck indoors for the day but still held out hope for making our dinner plans. Dinner plans which changed slightly … Daniel, though open, had not been able to receive their latest food delivery and therefore were operating a very limited menu. So we decided instead to head to Wylie Dufresne’s WD-50. Manhattan streets had at least been kind of cleared of some snow but it was still pretty hard work getting around:

WD-50, a slightly different kettle of fish to Daniel’s contemporary French, it’s no slouch in the awards department either with a Michelin-star and currently number #45 on the S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in the World list. WD-50 serves “New American” food and I was looking forward to see how much of owner Wylie Dufresne’s molecular gastronomy was present in the menu.

The restaurant has a very cool feel to it with cool lights, disco balls, wood mixed in with funky art, Japanese kind of style tatami mat place sets, dark but moving colours on the walls and this kind of sets the mood for the very forward-thinking and innovative menu.

There were so many things I wanted to try that I convinced Pat we should indulge in the 9-course tasting menu. Our amuse-bouche was a Striped bass, gingerbread, plum, and pickled ramp (a kind of wild leek). The freshness of the bass was well offset by the gingerbread (interesting!) and plum. I was liking the colours of our dishes already.

Next up was a very unusual bagel – yes it sounds fairly traditional: “Everything bagel, smoked salmon threads, crispy cream cheese” but the unusual twist comes in the fact that the bagel part was basically like an ice cream. Different!

Foie gras, passionfruit, chinese celery looked again fairly simple, fairly standard but then you cut open the foie gras and find the passionfruit liquid oozing out from inside. Gorgeous. The passionfruit was a fantastic way to cut through the richness of the foie gras.

Our Scrambled eggs ravioli, charred avocado, kindai kampachi was a really nice an interesting idea but I felt that perhaps the ravioli was slightly under seasoned so it didn’t really convince me.

Some dishes are best served cold but I would have preferred the next one wasn’t. Don’t get me wrong, even with being served cold, the Cold fried chicken, buttermilk-ricotta, tabasco, caviar was actually quite divine but there is just something about eating cold fried chicken that kind of creeps me out. Incredible flavour in this dish though.

Bone marrow has a very strong flavour and having it shaved over our next dish of Bay scallops, parsnip, and black sesame surprisingly worked for the dish. Okay it wasn’t the prettiest dish we had this evening but it was nom nom.

In a total twist on Beef and béarnaise this is what we were served next:

Where is the beef you ask? Where is the béarnaise? The beef was represented by the intense broth and the béarnaise were in the dumpling!

Then our final savoury dish of the night – squab breast, cheese pumpkin, corn bread, pickled cranberries.

For a girl that doesn’t really like beer I really liked our first dessert which was a White beer ice cream, quince, caramel, and caraway mix. It was very refreshing after the richness of the savoury part of our meal.

This was followed by two very pretty dessert plates: Grapefruit curd, camparai, and hisbicus-sorrel

And soft chocolate, beets, long pepper, ricotta ice cream. Really interesting how this last dish used what are traditionally savoury ingredients.

Petit fours to finish our meal – Cocoa packets and a Chocolate shortbread filled with milk ice cream.

Our evening in WD-50 was an experience. I very much enjoyed the restaurant’s take on more traditional dishes. Plating, except for the messy bone marrow dish, was very pretty and delicate. It was clear that great attention and thought had been given to and into each of the dishes. Service was very friendly and attentive, which I would expect in a restaurant in America, and our servers were very knowledgeable about the food. I’m not sure if some of the time we were actually being served by chefs from the kitchen?

I definitely would recommend WD-50 for something a little different (look out too for their Dessert Tasting menu!)

Tom Aikens Redux

Pat and I could hardly believe that Tom Aikens came back on offer so soon after our last visit. Having said that we hadn’t intended on going again for a while as it just seemed too indulgent to have the same rich meal again within three months. However, checking the menu the offerings were going to be different (Christmas theme) so we were in like a shot!

We both said from the outset that despite how fantastic the bread offerings were at Tom Aikens (and they were still really fantastic tonight) that we would try to resist eating too many of them throughout the meal. I was able to resist to some extent but between us we still ate enough to require requesting a second butter patty. At one stage Pat declared “no more bread” but then the next second when the waiter came around offering more bread Pat immediately said yes! Ha! He just couldn’t resist.

For our amuse bouche we were familiar with two of them (the Polenta and Parmesan croquette and the Olive “Bubble”) with the new kid on the scene being the truffle soup. Divine much? A touch on the salty side I still could have eaten the truffle soup all day long. Mmmm …

Our first dish last time was a scallop dish and this time it was also scallop but served very differently. Roast Scallop, black pudding, and parsnip purée. As fresh as the scallop was last time I think I enjoyed this one much better. The black pudding went surprisingly well.

For a Christmas treat next up was Venison Carpaccio, fig purée, toasted walnuts. Very festive and very fun dish. Very colourful – lucky I wasn’t wearing a white shirt!

Poached and Roasted Foie Gras, cassoulet Haricot beans. Not a fan of beans but the foie gras was tasty. I’m scared by just how much I’m starting to fall in love with foie gras. Not that I would go out of my way to get it … but I have no problems now chucking it down.

A fish course of John Dory, with chestnut ravioli, cabbage, bacon was one of my favourites tonight. The sweet and the salty played off the John Dory really well in this dish.

The next dish was really cute. Not sure if it was plated intentionally but I love how it actually looks like a bird! Roast Partridge, pear purée, choucroute, winter truffle sauce. Truffle. Check. Partridge cooked right. Check.

Desserts followed our savoury dishes. Two types: Confit Red Wine Plums, vanilla parfait, red wine sorbet and then the more Thanksgiving Pumpkin Pannacotta, pumpkin cake, candied kumquats. Yum.

And finally, what we had been waiting for, the petit fours! Tom Aikens really knows how to start and finish a meal!

Era Ora

Era Ora, About Time, is a concept Italian restaurant with ingredients purportedly flown in from Italy (makes me question slightly the green agenda.) The main influence is Umbrian and Tuscany but the restaurant is not afraid to go beyond those borders. The restaurant first earned its Michelin Star in 1996 which it has kept until now.

The exterior of the restaurant, located in Christianshavn, is very subtle. We walked by it a couple of times before realising it was the restaurant. Perhaps this was because it was fairly early on and the restaurant wasn’t quite so busy. The restaurant is filled with warm colours and fairly engaging interior decoration.

The menu consists of a tasting menu – it is up to you to choose how many courses. Bottled water is charged on a per person charge, rather than by bottle, which is both a plus and a negative. They certainly ticked my box for making sure our glasses were constantly topped up – still for me and sparkling for Pat.

For about £110 including service this is the food that we got:

An amuse bouche of Fried scallops with leeks, green apple and chilli sauce. This dish looked as good as it tasted.

Then our trio of starters. The first trio included:

Lobster salad with filo pastry and Cicerchia beans;
Pumpkin lasagna over fried Monte Veronese cheese,
Plaice rolled on swiss chard, potato, sun dried tomato and Jerusalem artichoke

The pumpkin lasagna was easily my favourite of these trios but that could be because it was warm where the other two dishes were cool. All three were very prettily presented though and involved an incredible detail in both the ingredients and the cooking.

Next up was a trio of

Veal tartar in love with crunchy cracker and foam of soya,
Castagnaccio with orange ricotta, banana chip and honey caramel,
Meat ball of venison in beans sauce with deep fried spring onion

These were really fun to eat. The castagnaccio (the middle item that looks like a cake) was an interesting addition to the trio.

A gorgeous Herbal risotto in scent of liquorice topped with roasted quail was up next for us. Incredibly delicate I wished that this dish would go on forever.

Next, another of my favourites was the home made trofie pasta rolled in venison ragout and red onion. It sounds like a fairly simple dish but the taste. Simply exquisite.

Then, sadly, we were on to our final savoury dish. I wasn’t sure I would enjoy it as involved lamb but I was quite surprised. Roasted lamb filet with eggplant composition and fried tomato was nice and not overwhelmingly lambish in flavour.

Desserts started with a Cream of white chocolate in scent of lemon served with variation of fennel and lemon and

the Coffee cream, cookie crumbs, dark chocolate caviar and milk sorbet.

Both very enjoyable dessert dishes and really showed Era Ora’s commitment to maintaining the presentation and detail to the end.

We finished our meal with tea (which came in this cute teapot which sat on top of my cup – love Danish design!) and petit fours.

I can totally see why Era Ora has received the best Italian in Copenhagen moniker. Food is fantastic quality – I don’t think we could have had more ingredients in each of the dishes (nor plates – I thought they would run out of plates at one stage!) – and also innovative. For those who like their wine Era Ora prides itself on its giant wine cellar containing supposedly 90,000 bottles of vintage Italian wine. Service was for the main part a hit (for example, the constant topping up of water) without being in the way though it did drop off slightly towards the end when the restaurant started filling up. The only negative was that we were promised a copy of the menu on the way out (we asked for it twice) but they never handed one over …