For some reason Meza is doing a series of “guest” residencies and this month’s feature is Anna Hansen’s The Meza Pantry. I’ve been meaning to head over to The Meza Pantry for quite some time now so was very excited to hear about the guest spot – but before booking I made sure that her signature Sugar-cured New Caledonian prawn omelette was on the menu!

Before getting on to the exciting stuff that is the food I first want to comment on the service. Too many times a restaurant experience has been let down the by all that surrounds the food and sadly I felt a little let down tonight. For a start when we first got to Meza at about 7 we were one of the first ones in the restaurant so it was strange that we were asked in a matter which suggested that if you didn’t have a reservation you wouldn’t have a chance of dining tonight. And it didn’t really get full until we left at about 9.30, and even then there were still a few empty tables. Then, the waiters didn’t really seem to know much about The Meza Pantry being at Meza and we weren’t even given the tasting menu at first, water was not constantly topped up and they failed to realise that truffles would come with the tasting menu (even though it was stated plainly on the menu.) On the plus we were seated at a four-person table rather than trying to cram us on to a two person table, and despite being entreated by our booking that we must return the table by 9.15 we weren’t rushed out of there when the time came.

But enough of that. On to the exciting stuff. I was too excited to focus on any one thing on the a la carte menu so convinced Pat we should try the seven-course tasting menu for £50.

Our first course of Beetroot, currant, okra & feta fritters with tamarind orange cream seemed, to be honest, a little on the over-cooked side from the looks of the dish but upon first bite I found that it was cooked just right. The orange part of the cream, however, did lose a bit against the tamarind which gave it more of a yoghurt type of flavour than citrus.

Organic salmon sashimi, truffled umeboshi dressing, yuzu tobiko and celery cress was so lovely and fresh and a great balance to the first rather rich and heavy dish.

Our third course of the night was the dish that I had been looking forward to … forever. Sugar-cured New Caledonian prawn omelette, spring onion, coriander, and smoked chilli sambal. Hello, my mouth had suddenly come alive. The sambal was a perfect foil for the sweet of the omelette. Creamy and moist. Loved it! Worth the wait … just a shame there wasn’t more!

I thought the next dish of Chilli garlic snails, chestnut & nutmeg puree and red veined sorrel cress would have a bite to it but the chilli was not at all present though the garlic flavour was strong. The chestnut and nutmeg puree was incredibly interesting and an odd pairing with the chilli garlic, though I think it actually worked.

Roast cod, chorizo & clams, squid ink mash, sea aster had the makings of a great combination. The chorizo was great (and this time the chorizo had a bit of bite) but the cod itself was not at all seasoned. Deliberate or intentional I’m not sure.

One of the reasons that I was wanted to try the tasting menu was that it featured a pork belly dish. Anna Hansen is also known for producing a good bit of pork bell so the slow roast Duke of Berkshire pork belly, sweet potato & fenugreek mash, Cox apple and sour cherry chutney sounded absolutely divine. Just a little disappointing! The pork belly wasn’t tender and the crackling hadn’t been given the amount of time it deserved so it was burnt rather than slowly crisped. 🙁

Finally, another feature of The Meza Pantry menu is the famed Hokey Pokey ice cream which comes from Australia and New Zealand combined with Caravan espresso to make an affogato. Hokey Pokey is basically vanilla ice cream with bits of small toffee. We didn’t get Hokey Pokey but we did get a toffee-flavoured ice cream which in the end worked quite well with the espresso.

Rounding out the meal were The Meza Pantry truffles which they nearly forgot to give us. There were three different sorts with the salted caramel definitely being the best. The other two flavours were some sort of chilli chocolate and a currant one. It must have been a little too hot in the restaurant as truffles were melting all over our fingers!

A good balanced meal. Am so excited that I’ve finally managed to dine at The Meza Pantry!